SANTA GERTRUDIS: a place of escape
At the geographical heart of the island, the village of Santa Gertrudis, is Ibiza in microcosm. Steeped in tradition, its main square houses the whitewashed church and a cluster of bars, restaurants and shops, whilst in the rich agricultural landscape all around, live sheep, goats and the island's only dairy cows.
It's also a home from home for many new residents from Europe and beyond who have brought a different, can we say Bohemian? style of living to the village. Many artists, sculptors and musicians have settled here over the years and their works are everywhere – in galleries and most famously in the Bar Costa where penniless artists in the hippy era would swap paintings for food and now hanging art competes with hanging hams for space.
Santa Gertrudis has expanded rapidly but carefully over the last few years. Smart modern villas now line the new streets, the village square has had a makeover and is now a pedestrian friendly plaza and new, hip café bars and restaurants have joined traditional Ibicenco establishments as the village's eatery scene achieved critical mass.
Any time of day is just perfect for a visit to the village. With arts and crafts shops, galleries, and an eclectic mix of clothing and accessories there's plenty of retail therapy to be had before and after morning coffee, lunch, afternoon 'merienda' or dinner.
Try the Musset Cafe for morning coffee and freshly baked bread; Bar Costa for delicious 'jamón serrano', Manchego cheese and crackling log fires in winter; Es Cantó for traditional hearty fare; La Petite Table for modern Mediterranean cuisine with super fresh, local ingredients; or for a special meal in the evening La Plaza.
Santa Gertrudis is also home to the international book shop Libro Azul, with English editions and a great choice of beautiful photography works. In Casi Todo there are auctions once or twice a month in English and Spanish, where everything from unwanted items, trinkets, furniture, paintings and real antiques are sold to the highest bidder.